Preparation is Key for a Successful Lawn Renovation
Getting the most out of your lawn renovation starts with proper preparation. This means ensuring your lawn is actively growing and applying herbicide to eliminate any weeds before you begin. Be sure to measure your lawn first so you can apply the right amount of product.
Equally important is having the right equipment for the job. You'll need a mower, lawn dethatcher (also known as a scarifier), core aerator, wheelbarrow, and levelling rake. All of this equipment is readily available at your local Aussie Hire branch.
Let's dive into a two-day lawn renovation plan, broken down into four essential steps. On day one, you'll scalp and scarify the lawn. On day two, you'll core aerate and top dress.
1. Scalp
Start by scalping your grass with a mower. Scalping is crucial because it removes the above-ground thatch, allowing the scarifier and core aerator to reach deeper into the soil.
When you top dress, scalping will also reveal low spots, making it easier to level the lawn. After all, achieving a smooth, even lawn is the ultimate goal of any lawn renovation!
I recommend using a reliable rotary mower for this task, as it can cut down to 7mm. You may need to start a bit higher, and it's okay if you see dirt patches in higher areas and green patches in lower areas.
Don't overdo the scalping; you don't need to scalp the lawn down to the dirt. Leaving a bit of grass ensures quicker recovery. The key is to find the right balance—scalp low enough to let the scarifier and core aerator do their job, but not so low that you're overdoing it.
2. Lawn Dethatcher (Scarifier)
Next, use a lawn dethatcher or scarifier to dig into the thatch layer. Many people find it easier to use the dethatcher without the catcher attached and then clean up the debris with a mower afterward.
Without the catcher, the machine performs better, as the catcher can cause it to tilt back when full. After scarifying, run a rotary mower over the area to tidy up before day two. Now, sit back, enjoy a cold drink, get some rest, and get ready for day two!
3. Core Aerate
On day two, it's time to core aerate the lawn. I've picked up a core aerator from Aussie Hire to pull cores from the soil. While some people skip this step, it's essential for improving soil health.
Go slow and keep the machine at low revs to avoid hitting brick or timber edging with the tines, which could damage the machine.
Coring allows air to penetrate the soil and improves water infiltration. Filling the core holes with sand during top dressing enhances drainage. It's worth the effort and the cost of hiring the aerator, even if you only aerate every other year.
4. Top Dress
Once the cores have dried, pick them up with a rotary mower set to a low height. Now the lawn is ready for top dressing. I like to apply grub control and fertilizer before top dressing.
If you have poor, sandy, or infertile soil, use a composted soil for top dressing. If your primary goal is levelling and improving drainage, opt for fine, triple-washed sand, which won't sink or break down over time.
Shovel the top dressing into a wheelbarrow and spread it evenly across the lawn. It's easier to work with when dry, so avoid wet clumps. Use a levelling rake to spread it evenly—the core holes will quickly absorb the sand or soil.
You might need to add extra top dressing in some spots. For large areas, consider hiring an automated top dresser for easy spreading.
Once the lawn is levelled, give it a thorough watering. Water first thing in the morning, then again at lunchtime. If the weather is warm, add a third watering session.
After that, all you need to do is sit back and look forward to lush, green grass as it recovers. This process may seem like a lot of work, but once you see the results, you'll never go back!
